Damp-proofing
Garage floors are usually laid straight onto hardcore with no damp-proof membrane, and the walls often have no cavity or a cavity that is bridged at the door opening. Skipping this stage is why so many cheap conversions end up with cold, musty rooms and peeling paint in the corners. We lay a new membrane, lap it into the wall damp-proof course, and deal with any bridging before anything else happens.
Floor, wall and roof insulation
Insulation goes under the new floor build-up, into the walls, and into the roof or ceiling. Where headroom is tight we use a thinner, higher performance board rather than simply leaving the insulation out. Cold bridges around the door opening and where the new floor meets the old wall are detailed rather than ignored.
Infilling the garage door
The old door comes out and the opening is filled in blockwork, tied into the existing walls, with a cavity, insulation and a damp-proof course carried through. Outside it is finished to match the house, in brick, render or flint, and a new window or door is set into the opening. Get this bit right and it stops looking like a converted garage.
Windows, heating and electrics
New window and door openings with proper lintels, radiators or underfloor heating added to the existing system, and a new lighting and socket layout with the circuits extended from the consumer unit. If the room is going to be an office, we run data and put sockets where the desk will actually go.
Finishing
Plasterboard and skim, flooring, skirting, architrave, internal doors and decoration, so the new room reads as part of the house rather than an add-on. All our carpentry, electrics and plumbing are done by our own team.